Quickly after the British painter referred to as Gluck, née Hannah Gluckstein, debuted her first solo present at London’s Dorien Leigh Galleries in 1924, her signature males’s put on apparel, which included tailor-made shirts from Jermyn Road, brought about such an uproar within the press that she felt compelled to concern a press release: “I simply don’t like ladies’s garments,” she stated. “I consider the time will come when … within the matter of costume, the lady of the longer term shall be indistinguishable from her brother or boyfriend.”
Whereas her prediction hasn’t confirmed solely true, button-up shirts like those Gluck favored have certainly turn out to be a traditional — reasonably than convention-defying — element of girls’s wardrobes, thanks partly to postwar vogue icons just like the actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn. And but a wealth of latest designers, from Rachel Scott of the New York-based model Diotima to Olivia Villanti of Mexico Metropolis’s Chava, are proving that the garment continues to be ripe for reinterpretation.
“I like reshaping classics with a exact eye for element,” says the Dutch designer Flòrian van Zuillen, 32, who launched her Amsterdam-based model, Flore Flore, in 2021 with natural cotton T-shirts. Final week, she debuted a five-piece assortment of white button-ups that she spent a 12 months and a half perfecting. Starting from slim-lined to oversize, the shirts are handmade in Portugal and completed with fastidiously researched particulars. The pronounced collar on the Giulia, for instance, takes its cues from classic Armani. And like van Zuillen’s tanks and tees, the shirts will ultimately be provided in a number of colours. As she says, “There’s not simply one good shirt.”
The New York-based designer Nili Lotan, 66, agrees. Since founding her label greater than 20 years in the past, she’s launched a brand new iteration — be it striped or strong, shrunken or relaxed — each season. “When a girl walks into the room, you wish to be impressed by her, not by what she’s sporting,” she says. “The button-down is nothing loud, however it brings one’s pure magnificence out.” Under, just a few of T’s favorites.
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