Men’s Spring/Summer 2014: Double-Breasted Tailoring

Double The Enjoyable

This yr we’ve witnessed extra variety inside males’s tailoring than ever earlier than. From conventional gray and navy fits, to the revival of traditional checks and pinstripes, to extra adventurous tones of burgundy, olive inexperienced and white, there really is one thing for everybody. For these prepared to go a step additional, printed tailoring has even made its mark, coming in a plethora of motifs that vary from assertion florals to polka dots. Nonetheless, one side that hasn’t been coated but this season by FashionBeans is the rise of double-breasted cuts. Many excessive vogue designers have been pushing double-breasted fits and jackets for SS14, and the excessive road has been fast to observe their lead. So, are you prepared so as to add some much-needed variety to your formal wardrobe?

Designer Collections

Ovadia & Sons was one of many barely lesser-known designer collections to characteristic a variety of double-breasted items. Styled in a timeless approach, key appears included a standard gray double-breasted swimsuit paired with a white shirt, black tie and Oxford sneakers. Ariel and Shimon, the dual brothers behind the model, went on to characteristic a navy double-breasted blazer with gold buttons, which was worn open and layered over a Breton striped long-sleeved Henley. These had been mixed with white trousers and lace-up sneakers for a nautical-inspired tackle the pattern. Nonetheless, the spotlight of the showcase needed to be the uber-stylish, double-breasted midnight blue tuxedo with distinction black lapels. Paired with a easy white shirt, black bow tie and black loafers with attention-grabbing outsized cloth detailing, it was the epitome of ‘traditional with a twist’:

Berluti was one other designer model that made double-breasted tailoring the muse of their assortment, albeit in a barely extra informal, however no much less courageous, approach. Inventive Director Alessandro Sartori was clearly influenced by the Nineteen Twenties and The Nice Gatsby, displaying an all-white outfit that featured a double-breasted linen swimsuit paired with an off-white shirt, outsized bow tie, lace-up sneakers and boater hat. A further all-white ensemble paired wide-legged trousers and a double-breasted blazer with an open-neck broad collar tee and patent black and white gown sneakers. The pure wrinkle of the linen mixed with the mannequin’s full beard and rolled up sleeves added a contact of nonchalance to an effortlessly fashionable look. Berluti’s assortment went on to show simply how properly double-breasted blazers can work as separates, combining a camel jacket with ivory trousers. Equally, the model confirmed they weren’t afraid to make a press release with color, utilising purple, deep marine blue and burgundy tones all through their providing:

Taking a bolder strategy to the pattern, Prada mixed wealthy double-breasted blazers and suiting with on trend floral print pieces. All through the showcase double-breasted jackets had been typically worn as separates and got here in both conventional black pinstripes or vivid hues corresponding to turquoise and ruby pink. A spotlight of the gathering was an unstructured double-breasted swimsuit in khaki. This seasonally-appropriate possibility was dressed down with trainers and a daring printed shirt, making it a wonderful possibility for summer season occasions or weddings:

London Collections Males: SS15

Though double-breasted tailoring has been pushed exhausting for a few years now, many nonetheless contemplate this lower to be nothing greater than a fleeting pattern. Nonetheless, if final week’s London Collections: Males SS15 is something to go by, the double-breasted jacket is right here to remain – no less than till 2015. Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies, Dunhill, Tiger of Sweden and Oliver Spencer featured double-breasted jackets and suiting in each match, cloth and color conceivable:

How To Put on

Double-breasted tailoring is commonly unfairly related to Forties mobsters and power-hungry Nineteen Eighties businessmen – assume Gordon Gecko from Wall Avenue, or notorious gangster Al Capone. Double-breasted fits from these eras had been very boxy of their form, typically showing outsized resulting from their beefier match and further broad lapels. In essence, they had been designed to make the wearer seem highly effective and promote an air of intimidation. Nonetheless, up to date variations are a lot sleeker and sharper of their form, lower near the torso with a extra pure shoulder that emphasises width with out including further bulk. Regardless of this, there’s no getting away from the truth that a double-breasted jacket naturally stands out greater than its single-breasted counterpart and is designed to make a assured assertion. If you wish to add one to your wardrobe, keep in mind the next pointers:

• Button Selection: Six buttons are finest for suiting and structured blazers whereas two/4 button jackets are extra applicable for smart-casual use and dressing down. 4 button types are additionally an awesome alternative for shorter gents, serving to stability their proportions.
• Peak Lapels: A double-breasted jacket is a bigger than life piece and subsequently the main points ought to match. With this in thoughts, go for peak lapels over notched. These is not going to solely create the phantasm of a wider chest but in addition draw the eyes upward to offer the looks of peak.
• The Lower: Double-breasted jackets may be worn by all physique varieties, as long as you retain the match tailor-made on the waist. As well as, excessive armholes and slimmer sleeves will assist produce a extra up to date silhouette that fits all builds.
• Jacket Size: The size of a double-breasted jacket needs to be shorter than a regular swimsuit blazer. This helps elongate the physique by revealing extra of your legs.
• Buttoning Up: It’s best to at all times fasten the highest button of a 4 or six button jacket, leaving the underside button undone. There is no such thing as a have to unbutton your jacket whenever you sit down, such as you would a single-breasted model.
• Hold It Easy: As beforehand talked about, this kind of lower makes a press release by itself, so there’s no have to go overboard together with your styling. Mix with traditional shirt and tie combinations or impartial wardrobe staples to let the jacket do all of the speaking. Likewise, if that is your first foray into double-breasted, keep away from patterned or daring colored designs.

In fact, as with something in males’s vogue, an important factor is to get the match proper – maybe much more so with double-breasted. Get your tailor to change the jacket to your particular physique form to be able to keep away from any affiliation with the outdated, boxy aesthetic of the previous.

Fashionable Lookbook Inspiration

Trend Press Response

The style press response to the comeback of the double-breasted lower has been overwhelmingly constructive. Shortlist journal really featured double-breasted blazers at primary of their record of the highest seven developments for spring 2014 and backed up this daring declaration with a collection of road model photos displaying fashionable gents rocking the look. These photographs proved that the double-breasted jacket may be worn in a contemporary approach with out coming throughout as dated or pretentious. The publication additionally highlighted how the brand new silhouette is rather more fitted and, though the double-breasted look is steeped in menswear custom and historical past, now feels extraordinarily fashion-forward. GQ was one other excessive profile advocate, with the journal just lately publishing a ‘Dos and Don’ts’ characteristic on double-breasted tailoring. This included every little thing from recommendation on the variety of buttons to lock to the significance of match and good tailoring. Apparently, GQ made the purpose that the double-breasted swimsuit is acceptable to any scenario the place you’d usually put on its single-breasted counterpart – be it to the workplace, a dinner date or for after-work drinks. Mr Porter endorsed this strategy by together with a characteristic on their web site showcasing the double-breasted blazer and insisting that it may be worn at nearly any event, together with a gallery opening, birthday lunch or summer season get together.

Key Types

Closing Phrase

A timeless lower that has been tailored for the trendy market, double-breasted tailoring is continuous to stamp its mark on the business and seems to be right here to remain for the foreseeable future. Good for anybody who desires to make a robust and assured assertion – whether or not at work or a summer season occasion – a impartial double-breasted blazer or swimsuit in a breathable cloth and slim, tailor-made match makes a flexible addition to any warm-weather wardrobe. However what do you assume – are you assured sufficient to offer double-breasted a go? Maybe you already do? As at all times, we welcome your ideas and musings under…