The BoF Podcast | Tim Blanks and Imran Amed on the Fashion Month Gone By

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Background

This season, trend month noticed a number of highly-anticipated debuts (Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, and Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford) in addition to goodbyes (Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Fabio Zambernardi at Prada and Miu Miu, and Gabriela Hearst at Chloé). However, past these headline-making moments, the highlights included the slyness and humour at Prada the place fashions walked down a runway towards a backdrop of dripping slime to an Alfred Hitchcock soundtrack, Dries Van Noten’s and fashions at JW Anderson in plasticine-made hoodies..

“The perfect exhibits make you assume and make you’re feeling a little bit uncomfortable or they evoke some form of emotion — however additionally they make you need to store,” says Imran Amed, BoF’s founder and editor-in-chief.

Following the conclusion of Paris Trend Week, Amed sat down with BoF’s editor-at-large Tim Blanks to debate the highlights of the Spring/Summer season 2024 season and the hallmarks of a terrific trend present.

Key Insights

• Sabato de Sarno’s much-anticipated debut at Gucci, which included a change of venue from the streets of Milan’s Brera district to Gucci’s headquarters pressured by inclement climate. “If these ladies had been strolling on cobblestones similar to individuals going someplace, seeing these garments in an actual setting, it might have taken on a distinct form of life,” says Blanks.
• Alexander McQueen mentioned goodbye to Sarah Burton, who served as a steward for the model for greater than 10 years after the dying of its namesake designer. ( ” She was so umbilically linked with [McQueen] that the model ethos was sustained to a exceptional diploma. I might hate to see McQueen now grow to be a kind of manufacturers the place nobody actually is aware of what to do with it and it’s in play,” says Blanks.
• Rick Owens present featured plumes of colored smoke and bursts of rose petals — and a set stuffed with thought-provoking assertion items. “There’s actually nobody like him in trend, and I don’t know if there has ever been anybody like him in trend,” says Blanks.
• Blanks calls Undercover’s Jun Takahashi one of many business’s most fascinating designers. This yr, Takahashi confirmed a provocative assortment that performed with proportions and layering, with a finale that included “terrarium” skirts, crammed with crops and reside butterflies. “He makes garments that … individuals would possibly take into account to be avant garde, however they’re so stunning and wearable as effectively,” says Blanks.
• Prada was the “present of the season.” Just a few years into Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ collaboration as co-creative administrators, the present’s success was a convergence of components past the gathering itself — from the soundtrack (Alfred Hitchcok’s “Vertigo”) to the set. “It reminded us of Prada in its full glory the place there was that slyness and humour and perverse glamour,” says Blanks.

Further Sources