The Truth Behind Coco Chanel’s Nazi Ties in ‘The New Look’

Earlier than the battle and throughout the Occupation, Arletty and Chanel have been a part of a unprecedented social set from throughout the humanities and political spectrum. Proper-wing and antisemitic views dominated the politics of this group. The French journalist Boulos Ristelhueber reported in 1940 that Chanel had gone into “into an extended tirade in opposition to the Jews” throughout a dinner. Not like some in her circle, nonetheless, Chanel didn’t embrace Nazi ideology. Above all, she was an opportunist.

Nonetheless, given Chanel’s involvement with the Nazis, it’s exhausting to consider two curious paperwork that surfaced not too long ago “testifying” to her participation within the French Resistance. The paperwork, considered one of which is referenced by Justine Picardie in a brand new version of her e-book, “Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life,” are on show on the Victoria and Albert Museum as a part of a blockbuster exhibit, “Gabrielle Chanel: Trend Manifesto,” which closes on March 10.

Guillaume Pollack, a French historian who examined the paperwork in army archives in Vincennes, mentioned he has “critical doubts” about Chanel’s precise involvement within the Resistance. Mr. Pollack, who wrote “L’Armee du Silence,” a historical past of Resistance networks, advised France 24, the state-controlled worldwide information supply, that the majority resistance information overflow with testimony detailing the precise position and actions of the resistant in query. However Chanel’s file had “not a single hint” of corroborating proof. He thinks Chanel by some means secured the attestation in an try to revive her tarnished repute within the Nineteen Fifties after reopening her trend home, which she had closed in 1939 on the eve of battle.

By this time, the Wertheimers had settled with Chanel over possession of her namesake firm, paying her hundreds of thousands of {dollars} and agreeing to bankroll her return to designing garments. As we speak, the grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer personal the privately held agency, which frequently evokes Chanel as an avatar of stylish and independence. The official Chanel web site proclaims her “an inspiration for all girls,” whereas utterly ignoring her darkish previous.

Within the remaining episode of “The New Look,” the Pierre Wertheimer character asks Chanel to apologize for denouncing him and his brother to the Gestapo. “I can’t apologize! I used to be cornered similar to you!” she shouts — as if the chance of diminished fragrance earnings have been equal to the chance of shedding one’s life in a Nazi focus camp.

The actual Chanel, although hardly a pleasant lady, was good sufficient to know the distinction.