What Is a Dupatta? The Truth Behind The “Very European” TikTok Trend

Over the past week, South Asian creators have been sharing their “Very European” #OOTDs, and it is prompting an essential convo about co-opting cultural clothes.

Vogue is supposed to titillate, push boundaries, and, usually, trigger only a little little bit of controversy. However generally, it simply straight-up pisses us off. Working example: Co-opting and colonizing the very acquainted South Asian dupatta. In mid-March, vogue rental firm Bipty posted a now-deleted TikTok, whereby an worker addressed the viewers over photos of (all white) girls carrying summer season robes. All through the video, among the girls are sporting scarves and sheer shawls draped throughout their chests and over their shoulders. It’s whimsical, stylish, and, apparently, because the Bipty worker famous, due to this: “It’s very European; it’s very stylish.” 

The factor is, this look shouldn’t be European in any respect. The truth is, as many individuals rapidly identified within the feedback, the look is quintessentially South Asian, emulating a mode many ladies put on, referred to as a dupatta, which is draped throughout their shoulders. That means that “very European” remark shouldn’t be solely incorrect, but in addition fairly problematic. Under, all the pieces it’s good to know concerning the controversy.

What was the response to the unique video?

It didn’t take lengthy after Bipty shared their video for the responses to begin flooding in, they usually had been less-than beneficial. As TikTok customers rapidly identified, this fashion of costume isn’t European in any respect, however somewhat, co-opted from South Asian culture and fashion.  ICYMI, donning a shawl draped round your neck or throughout your shoulders is like South Asian dressing 101; with many South Asian girls carrying a dupatta — a shawl-like scarf— as part of their on a regular basis apparel. Most frequently, it’s worn as part of the shalwar kameez outfit and will be adorned with embroidery and beading or as a easy unadorned material. And so they’re beautiful in any capability. Critically, simply take a look at any ’90s Bollywood movie starring Aishwarya Rai, or Kajol and her myriad of vibrant matches in *this* pivotal scene from 2001’s Kabhi Kushi Kabhie Gham. Chic!

What’s in all probability most irritating about this case is the truth that, as TikTok consumer @daivifromkajustudios identified, that is removed from the primary time features of South Asian tradition have been taken and unfold as “stylish” with none understanding of or credit score for his or her origins. (*Ahem* yoga *ahem*.)

What’s the “Very European OOTD” development?

Whereas individuals had been making their distaste for the video identified within the feedback, different creatives began pushing again with movies of their very own. Not essentially immediately calling out Bipty or its eyebrow-raising TikTok, however as an alternative sharing their very own very sarcastic movies, exhibiting off their “Very European OOTDs” or their tackle the “Scandinavian scarf lady aesthetic.” In fact, they’re not carrying Ganni or Stine Goya, however somewhat all rocking conventional South Asian clothes; Shalwar kameez’s topped with vivid and an adorned dupatta.

The sassy messaging, and the truth that these creators look beautiful, is fairly clear: You may attempt to emulate us, however you’ll be able to’t take this away from us. You’ll by no means fairly match up.

What was Bipty’s response to the dupatta controversy?

A day after the preliminary video was launched, Bipty founder Natalia Ohanesian took to the corporate’s social media account to apologize for his or her preliminary put up. In her apology video, Ohanesian stated she needed to have a constructive dialog and apologize after listening to from members of the South Asian neighborhood.

“The style aesthetic my teammate is fawning over are clearly not European, and I perceive the deeper conversations round cultural appropriation, giving credit score the place credit score is due, and likewise the entire damage that comes from these conversations.” Ohanesian went on to say that she understands that although the video was posted with out a lot data and regard, it does have an effect, and that the intention was by no means to harm anybody.

Ohanesian went on to then thank everybody who reached out with their suggestions and her hope that this incident can create a constructive dialog.

Why ought to we be speaking about this?

Whereas some individuals might imagine the web — and South Asian neighborhood’s — response to the Bipty video is overblown, it’s not. As a result of, as Ohanesian acknowledged, it wasn’t simply any outdated video. The actual fact of the matter is that, even when unintentionally, Bipty’s video and lack of acknowledgment of the dupatta performs right into a long history of Western culture co-opting traditions and traits from marginalized communities and each erasing and profiting off of them. This most frequently occurs on the expense of individuals of color and to the advantage of white individuals. The gist? Conventional communities’ aesthetics are sometimes seen as “backwards” or low class till they’re taken on by white bodies, beneath which they then change into “stylish” or cool. We’ve seen this time and time once more.

Look no additional than in 2022, when Hailey Bieber got here beneath fireplace for cultural appropriation after bringing her “brownie glazed lip” to the plenty. In a makeup tutorial on her TikTok web page, the mannequin shared her fave lip combo she was “feeling for fall,” lining her higher and decrease lips with brown earlier than mixing it in and coating her lips with clear gloss. As many individuals famous, although given one other cutesy identify by Bieber, this magnificence development is definitely one thing that many Black and Latina girls have worn for the reason that Nineties, initially as a result of there have been limited lip products with ranges that catered to darker pores and skin tones. The “clean girl aesthetic” additionally made in style by Bieber, that includes slicked again hair and gold hoops? One other staple for Black and Latina women. The widespread thread is fairly clear; many of those aesthetics are perceived negatively when worn by the communities they’re created by and for, solely to be seen as fascinating when co-opted by white our bodies.

Take for instance, Sex and The City‘s Carrie Bradshaw who, in 2001, acquired a gold engagement ring from then-beau Aidan. She hated it. “However you put on gold,” Miranda informed her on the time. “Yeah, ghetto gold for enjoyable!” Yikes. With gold being long-associated with girls of color at the moment, the sentiment was fairly clear — and really telling.

And now, that’s what’s occurring in these movies, too. “For it to be perceived as destructive when a South Asian individual engages with a practice however acceptable and even stylish with white individuals…textbook racism,” @daivifromkajustudios stated in a touch upon her unique video. “Gotta name it out.”

To not point out the truth that, in overlooking the South Asian affect, it fully erases an essential a part of a tradition as one thing that’s theirs. Which, given the historical past of European colonization in South Asian international locations, is fairly impactful.

It’s essential to notice that this aesthetic isn’t simply purely relegated to South Asian communities. Many individuals on-line referred to as consideration to the truth that the draping of the scarf is much like kinds traditionally worn in Spain and Greece — which are technically European international locations. However the truth stays that it is a fashion visibly worn and embraced by the South Asian neighborhood, which makes their emotions — and upset — legitimate. And, which suggests it’s extra essential than ever that we take heed to them.

Bipty founder Ohanesian’s apology is a optimistic step, but it surely’s additionally sort of drained; as a result of we’re past this backwards and forwards of manufacturers — and other people — taking from minority communities, erasing their traditions and existence, after which utilizing the second as a  “rising and studying” alternative. Moreover, shouldn’t we be previous that by now?  If something, this newest controversy is a reminder for us to diversify our workplaces and social media followings — and perhaps do a little bit of homework.