Yohji Yamamoto Prefers the Side View

This sketch [from Yohji Yamamoto’s fall 1988 collection] (above) is a lie. It’s a lady, however she appears like a person. And in a means, that turned my total message. I’d at all times been a giant fan [of the German choreographer Pina Bausch] as a result of, in her work, she was proud and a bit indignant. However after we talked, she was so light. Whereas getting ready for the twenty fifth anniversary of her dance firm [in 1998], she despatched me a telegram: “Yohji, do one thing for it.” That was it. So I did the costumes for Pina’s present (under, proper). Shortly earlier than her dying [in 2009], she mentioned, “I undergo a lot.” She’d by no means complained, after which sooner or later she shouted.

I really like this image of me and [the French Tunisian couturier] Azzedine Alaïa (above, left) from the mid-Nineties. We have been nearer than brothers. Once I began my males’s line [in 1984], he gave me his house to do the present. I revered him so deeply, however I by no means considered him as a competitor. We had completely completely different concepts about tips on how to gown. That is from my first girls’s present (above, middle) in Paris in 1981. On the time, I didn’t know what to do or tips on how to do it. I made a decision to keep away from shade — to make use of solely white, grey or black — as a result of I used to be born in Kabukicho [a popular district among Tokyo sex workers], the place drunk individuals went to select up girls in vibrant printed clothes. That many colours made me drained.

Once I was round 3 years previous, I seen that I had no father. He fought in World Warfare II and didn’t come again. I bear in mind my mom being pushed to plan a funeral. I used to be so indignant at everybody for making her try this; she nonetheless believed he was coming residence. I used to be raised by her and an aunt who didn’t have youngsters of her personal. My aunt inspired me to start out making music in my second 12 months of junior highschool. I produced this album [“Your Pain Shall Be Your Music”] (above, prime left) in 1997 as a result of singing solely about happiness is boring. The identical goes for artwork. That is considered one of [Francisco de] Goya’s ugliest work [“Saturn Devouring His Son,” 1820-23] (above, middle), and I’m jealous of it. I requested myself, “Are you able to design an unpleasant factor?” However no, I can’t. Though he did ugly work, too, I didn’t like Picasso a lot. He used too many strategies till he lastly discovered Cubism. That is the constructing flooring (above, backside left) the place we do the boys’s present. I was indignant at my father for giving me my first identify — “Yohji” could be very troublesome to put in writing in kanji — however once I have a look at this, it has attraction. I like Bob Dylan (above, proper) due to his spirit of protest. He got here into my store as soon as. I requested him, “Received’t you stroll in my present?” He mentioned no. He’s very handsome, however not a lot taller than Paul Simon.

Once I meet somebody, I don’t need to see them from the entrance or the again. I want the aspect view (above, proper). Folks name it a psychological profile for a purpose: The aspect view [seen here in a sketch for Yamamoto’s spring 1987 men’s show] has tales to inform, which is why I prefer to design that means. I began drawing and portray as a younger boy as a result of I used to be at all times alone. I most popular to learn tales about unhappy individuals and, finally, I arrived at [Fyodor] Dostoyevsky’s “The Brothers Karamazov” (1880) (above, left). I’ve been actually influenced by Russian literature, however there are such a lot of individuals on this one. It’s arduous to recollect their names, they usually converse loads.

This interview has been edited and condensed.